The Dordogne and Lot Rivers cross central France winding past picturesque towns and villages, massive fortresses and castles, humble dwellings carved into limestone cliffs, pre-historic cave drawings and scenic countryside. Long ignored by tourists who flocked to Paris and the Riviera, the quiet beauty of this region has gained popularity in recent years. Despite France’s excellent rail system, this area is best explored by automobile. 

Bordeaux, with a major airport and excellent rail connections from Paris, is an excellent start and end point for a driving tour of the Dordogne and Lot River regions. Bordeaux is worthy of a stop, particularly for those arriving from the U.S. on overnight flights.  But those who want to bypass the city can start in St. Emilion, a 45 minute drive. While strictly speaking not part of the Dordogne River Valley St. Emilion is not only one of the most beautiful villages in France it is surrounded by the vineyards that produce grapes for St. Emilion wines.  Wine lovers should allow two nights here. 

The Dordogne and Lot River Valleys have a wealth of interesting places to visit concentrated in a relatively small geographical area.  This allows travelers to explore the area from only one or two bases.  To start, drive east from St. Emilion to Bergerac where it’s possible to leave the main road and follow country byways through rural villages to St. Cirq Lapopie, truly one of the most beautiful villages of  France and an ideal place to stop for several days to explore the area.  Allow one day to explore the scenic beauty and villages of the Lot Valley and a second day to drive to Conques, a 1000 year old village anchored by the magnificent abbey built to house the relics of St. Foy.  Include a stop in the town of Figeac, a beautiful town with an unspoiled medieval center.  

From St. Cirq Lapopie drive north to the central Dordogne area, where there are several towns and villages, including Domme and Sarlat-le-Caneda, that make an excellent base for exploring the region.  On the drive north, stop to look at the dramatic view from l’Hospitalet Road of the village of Rocamadour, a religious pilgrimage site dating from the Middle Ages that is worth a stop.  

The Dordogne Valley is divided into four regions, and provides enough sightseing and activities for several days, including medieval castles, caves with and without pre-historic drawings, troglodyte homes (cave dwellings) built into the limestone cliffs 800 years ago and still inhabited, as well as dozens of picturesque towns and villages. For those who want to get out of the car and enjoy some physical activity, The Dordogne offers opportunities for hiking, bicycling, spelunking and canoeing on the river. 

The best time to plan a driving tour of this region is late spring through fall. Visitors in the off-season miss the beauty of the landscape in bloom and find many of sightseeing and outdoor activities are seasonal, and many restored villages that bustle with activity in season are like ghost towns in the off-season.

Karen Stott

Frosch Travel Specialist